AHK-Cu

INCI Name: Copper Tripeptide-3
Molecular Formula: C14H25N7O4Cu
Peptide Sequence: Ala-His-Lys (AHK) bound to copper (Cu2+)

What is AHK-Cu?

AHK-Cu, also known as Copper Tripeptide-3, is a synthetic copper-binding peptide that mimics a naturally occurring tripeptide structure: alanine-histidine-lysine. When chelated with copper ions (Cu2+), this peptide forms a bioavailable complex that plays a crucial role in tissue regeneration, inflammation modulation, and, most notably, hair follicle stimulation.

Although it shares structural similarities with its more well-known cousin, GHK-Cu, AHK-Cu has specific activity that makes it uniquely valuable in cosmetic and regenerative applications—particularly in promoting hair growth, skin vascularization, and tissue repair.

How Does AHK-Cu Work?

AHK-Cu exerts its effects through a variety of biochemical signaling pathways. Here’s a breakdown of how it acts at the cellular and molecular levels:

1. VEGF Upregulation

AHK-Cu significantly increases the expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), a key protein responsible for promoting angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels). This is particularly crucial in the scalp, where increased blood supply around the follicle means more oxygen and nutrients for robust hair growth.

2. Anti-Apoptotic Effects on Dermal Papilla Cells

The dermal papilla is the command center of the hair follicle. AHK-Cu has been shown to prevent programmed cell death (apoptosis) of dermal papilla cells, allowing follicles to maintain an active, growth-oriented environment.

3. Reduction of TGF-β1 Expression

Transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-β1) is a cytokine involved in inducing catagen (the regression phase of the hair cycle). AHK-Cu downregulates this molecule, thereby delaying the catagen phase and prolonging the anagen (growth) phase.

4. Stimulation of Extracellular Matrix Components

AHK-Cu helps support the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, aiding in skin integrity and elasticity—especially important in scalp health.

Key Benefits

🔬 1. Promotes Hair Growth

• Stimulates blood flow to the follicle via angiogenesis
• Reduces follicular shrinkage caused by stress, hormones, and inflammation
• Prolongs the active growth phase (anagen) of the hair cycle
• Encourages thicker, healthier strands over time

🧴 2. Improves Scalp and Skin Health

• Enhances tissue oxygenation and nutrient delivery
• Supports healing of micro-injuries or irritation (e.g., from microneedling)
• Strengthens skin structure via collagen and elastin production

🧬 3. Combats Inflammation & Oxidative Stress

• Neutralizes free radicals via its copper ion component
• Modulates inflammatory cytokines linked to aging and hair loss

🧪 4. Enhances Delivery of Active Ingredients

• Works synergistically with liposomes and phospholipids
• Often paired with GHK-Cu in advanced peptide-based formulations

Scientific Evidence and Studies

While AHK-Cu research is not as prolific as GHK-Cu, multiple studies support its role in hair regeneration and tissue repair:

• 2007 Korean study (Baek et al.): AHK-Cu applied to human dermal papilla cells in vitro showed increased VEGF expression and dermal cell proliferation.
• Animal models: Mice treated with topical AHK-Cu exhibited increased hair density and delayed transition to catagen.
• Cosmeceutical formulations: Clinical usage of AHK-Cu in topical serums has shown improved hair count, thickness, and scalp integrity when applied consistently over 8–12 weeks.

These studies suggest that AHK-Cu is a strong candidate for non-pharmaceutical intervention in hair loss and scalp regeneration.

Application in Cosmetics and Skincare

Hair Growth Serums & Scalp Treatments

AHK-Cu is frequently included in formulations designed to:

• Counter androgenic alopecia
• Support post-hair-transplant healing
• Optimize microneedling regimens
• Revive dormant follicles

Anti-Aging Skincare

Though less common than in hair care, AHK-Cu can:

• Improve microvascular circulation in the skin
• Support fibroblast activity
• Assist in post-procedure recovery (e.g., after dermabrasion or light therapy)

Ideal Pairings

• GHK-Cu: Broad regeneration and anti-aging support
• Vitamin B5 / Panthenol: Hydration and barrier reinforcement
• Caffeine: Vasodilation and improved delivery
• Niacinamide: Inflammation control

Delivery Mechanisms

Peptides are fragile molecules and require precise formulation to ensure stability and efficacy. AHK-Cu’s copper ion adds to its sensitivity. Lab of RAD uses the following approaches:

• Liposomal encapsulation to protect the peptide and ensure time-released delivery
• Airless packaging to prevent oxidation and degradation
• Carrier emulsifiers like lecithin or phosphatidylcholine to assist skin and follicular penetration

All formulations are pH-balanced to preserve the ionic integrity of the copper complex.

AHK-Cu vs. GHK-Cu: What’s the Difference?

While they’re related, each peptide has unique strengths. That’s why Lab of RAD leverages both across complementary formulas—for total skin + scalp synergy.

Safety & Tolerability

AHK-Cu is considered safe and well-tolerated when used topically. It is:

• Non-toxic at cosmetic concentrations
• Non-irritating to most skin types
• Compatible with sensitive and aging skin

As with any active, a patch test is recommended for first-time users. Avoid use on open wounds or active infections unless otherwise advised.

AHK-Cu in Lab of RAD Formulas

We use AHK-Cu where it works best: in follicle-focused and vascular-supportive formulas. This includes:

• StrandTheory Elevate Hair Mist – a lightweight, daily-use spray to energize follicles and boost growth
• StrandTheory Reset Shampoo – paired with copper peptides for root-strengthening
• Future serums designed for post-microneedling recovery and scalp circulation support

Each product is crafted to keep AHK-Cu stable, bioavailable, and at optimal concentrations for results you can actually feel (and see).

Final Thoughts

AHK-Cu is not just another trendy ingredient—it’s a scientifically-backed, multifunctional peptide with powerful implications for hair growth and skin health. At Lab of RAD, we don’t just toss buzzwords into a bottle. We engineer every formula to maximize bioactivity, combining the best of modern science with intentional, clean formulation.

Whether you’re fighting hair loss, recovering post-procedure, or simply ready to take your follicular health to a higher level—AHK-Cu has earned its place in your regimen.

💥 Explore our related products:
Visit our AHK-Cu product page for more.

📚 Want to go deeper into peptide science? Check out our full Peptide Library for the full molecule-by-molecule breakdown.

🧪 Lab of RAD – The glow-up is molecular. Let’s make it RAD.